It’s wild to think it’s been 40 years since Air Jordans first took flight. Back when Michael Jordan laced up those black-and-red 1s in 1984, the NBA wasn’t impressed. Mostly, only white sneakers were allowed, and the league banned the Jordans outright. However, MJ continued to wear them, and each time the league fined him.
Nike, sensing the makings of myth, happily picked up the tab. The message was loud, rebellious and clear: “Sometimes breaking the rules is the game.”
Soon, April 1, 1985, the Air Jordan was released to the public. It wasn’t just another sneaker; it was status. You didn’t just wear them; you walked differently in them. Every kid in the neighborhood knew the code. Keep them clean, don’t crease the toe box, and if someone in the school hallways asked, “What size are those?” you just kept walking, eyes forward, and don’t flinch, cause you might get got.
Of course, the shoes weren’t without controversy. From the start, Jordans were expensive compared to other sneakers; there were allegations of unethical labor practices, while others criticized his personal lack of interest —at the time — in engaging in the politics of those who strongly supported the brand.
Jordan’s response: “Republicans buy sneakers too.” The quote became shorthand for Jordan’s apolitical stance during a time when other Black athletes — like Muhammad Ali and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar — were vocal about social justice.
But you gotta admit, the brand once best known for the tagline: “it’s gotta be the shoes” was meant for the world. Today, sneakerheads of all backgrounds, young and old, conservative and liberal, male and female alike, stalk the GOAT app and stand in line for hours, no days, dare I say weeks, in anticipation of a limited-edition drop, hoping to get their hands on a pair — and a backup to sell if they’re lucky. Resale values of rare pairs can go higher than 10 times the original price.
This month, the story comes full circle. Air Jordan, a new coffee-table tome from luxury publisher Assouline, traces the evolution of the world’s most iconic sneaker line.
Written by bestselling author Adam Bradley, with a foreword by Jordan himself, it’s equal parts art history, sports gospel and cultural archive. Proof that what started with one banned sneaker became a global language.
Air Jordan is now on Assouline.com and in boutiques worldwide, with a global release on November 1 for the next generation of sneakerheads to line up, once again, to get their hands on a piece of history.