For years, I believed my melanin was all the protection I needed before stepping out into the sun. Like many Black people, I grew up hearing, “You don’t need sunscreen—Black don’t crack.”
It wasn’t until I started getting monthly facials that I learned sunscreen does much more than help prevent sunburn. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation (which I have), protect against premature aging, and lower the risk of skin cancer. While melanin does provide some natural protection against UV rays, it doesn’t eliminate the risk of sun damage or skin cancer.
The Skin Cancer Foundation reports that skin cancer represents 1 to 2% of all cancers diagnosed in Black people. And although melanoma is less common in Black patients, it’s more than three times as likely to be diagnosed at a later stage than in non-Hispanic white patients.
With temperatures heating up this summer, board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Clay-Ramsey, MD, FAAD, and licensed esthetician Deja Gause spoke with EBONY to debunk myths about sunscreen and explain why it deserves a permanent place in our daily routines.
Why Skin Cancer Is Often Diagnosed Later In Black Patients
Research shows that melanoma is less common among Black people and is often diagnosed at a later stage, making it more difficult to treat.
Dr. Clay-Ramsey says one reason skin cancer is often diagnosed later in Black patients is that it doesn’t always resemble the textbook images many people associate with the disease. As a result, symptoms can easily be mistaken for harmless skin conditions, delaying diagnosis and treatment. “I once diagnosed a basal cell carcinoma that looked like a cyst and a melanoma that looked like a skin tag,” she recalled.
She recommends paying close attention to new or changing dark spots, skin that doesn’t heal, dark streaks beneath the nails, spots on the palms or soles of the feet, and chronic sores or ulcers.
Sunscreen Does More Than Help Prevent Skin Cancer
Though many people associate sunscreen with preventing sunburn after spending hours outside, Dr. Clay-Ramsey says daily SPF also helps prevent hyperpigmentation, premature aging, and sunburn. “I wish people understood that proper sunscreen use is necessary, even for Black and darker-skinned people.” She says she’s treated Black patients with sunburn who didn’t realize they were burned because they mistook the symptoms for dry skin or a heat rash.
While melanin does provide some natural protection from UV rays, licensed esthetician Deja Gause says many people misunderstand what that actually means. Having more melanin may provide slightly greater natural protection against the sun, but it doesn’t eliminate the need for sunscreen. “That doesn’t refute the importance of protecting that melanin,” Gause said.
How To Choose The Right Sunscreen for Melanin-Rich Skin
With so many sunscreen options on the market, choosing the right one can feel overwhelming. The important thing isn’t choosing the trendiest option—it’s choosing one that offers adequate protection. When shopping for sunscreen, Dr. Clay-Ramsey recommends choosing a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher and making it part of your daily routine—not just something you wear on vacation.
Although Black skin tends to develop fewer wrinkles and fine lines, Dr. Clay-Ramsey says it often shows signs of aging through discoloration, hyperpigmentation and sagging—all concerns that daily sunscreen can help minimize. “Sunscreen can only offer so much protection if you’re basking in the sunlight without other shade-producing measures,” she added.
The Sunscreen Mistakes Estheticians See Most Often
As an esthetician, Gause says she sees people make plenty of mistakes. One of the biggest mistakes Gause sees is people assuming sunscreen is a one-and-done product. Most formulas need to be reapplied every 80 to 90 minutes, depending on the product and your level of sun exposure. “Checking the weather app can help people figure out where the UV index is throughout the day,” she said.
Gause says she typically sees two types of clients: those who never wear sunscreen and those who never leave home without it. “I either preach until my face turns blue about SPF, or I don’t have to say a thing because they’ve been on it for generations.”
She also sees many clients skipping sunscreen indoors. Between sunlight coming through windows and exposure to blue light from electronic devices, she says daily SPF is still important—especially for people managing hyperpigmentation. “I tell my clients that SPF is great at the beach but necessary all year round, because the sun’s rays don’t go away just because the sun is away,” she adds.
Why Sunscreen Should Be Part Of Your Daily Routine
Gause encourages Black people to be proactive about skin health. Although skin cancer is less common among Black people, she says that doesn’t mean routine skin checks or sun protection should be overlooked. “We have to be diligent and protect ourselves,” Gause explained.
While it’s still Hot Girl Summer, the most important thing to remember is that wearing sunscreen protects your skin. By making SPF part of your daily routine, you can help preserve your skin’s health today while protecting it for years to come.