In an era where DEI efforts from major corporations are practically nonexistent, supporting Black designers is more critical than ever. And though the hype from 2020’s racial reckonings have dwindled, there’s one brand that’s actually committed to uplifting designers of color for the long run: EMERGE!
Founded in February 2011 by public relations entrepreneur Dionne Williams, EMERGE! serves as the top emerging designer collective at New York Fashion Week. The birthing ground for this vision? Williams’s longstanding friendship with Project Runway alum Terri Stevens. “I was a guest for the finale show 16 years ago when everything was at Bryant Park,” Williams tells EBONY. “I was just blown away by the lights, camera, production, and beautiful designs…so I was bit by the bug at that point.”
It wasn’t long before the Chicago-bred founder would put action to her allure of the fashion world. With years of experience at the helm of her eponymous PR and events agency, Williams doesn’t credit herself as a fashion insider—yet her drive to spotlight and empower independent designers would prevail. She launched the first show in a small box studio in Chelsea, with an audience of just 150 attendees. It also marked the first year of the Fashion Innovator Award, which was presented to model, Audrey Smaltz.
“I not only want to honor people, but we also need to know our history,” she emphasizes. Since then, the association has gone on to feature some of our community’s most respected trailblazers, including Pat Cleveland, Andre Leon Talley, April Walker, and Brandon Blackwood. EMERGE! is not just a fashion show; it’s a bridge between Black fashion’s glorious past and its promising future. And the brand’s 15th anniversary show on Tuesday night is only further proof of that.
Williams transformed the Financial District’s Leman Ballroom into a jubilant gathering of Black excellence and creativity in all its glory, and without apology. Not only did the innovative work of designer novices dominate the runway, but household names participated in the showcase—serving as an access point for past and present leaders. Grammy Award-winning R&B artist October London collaborated with Ilbert Sanchez for his new collection, further cementing his venture into fashion. Streetwear legend, Karl Kani made a triumphant return to the shows through fresh designs reflective of New York culture. Chaka Khan commanded the catwalk after accepting the Fashion Innovator Award. And Eva Marcille proudly accepted the Style Award. Beauty was also part of the conversation, with Danessa Myricks receiving the inaugural Business of Beauty Award, for her endless commitment to advancing Black beauty.
What makes this sartorial extravaganza even more meaningful? Its “Beyond the Runway” initiative. “We do a beautiful show and it’s well received, but after the show, what happens?,” Williams says. “A lot of designers come to us after the show and ask, ‘What’s next?’ Through resources, summits, and collaboration with larger corporations, this effort actually gives designers the tools and knowledge for running a successful and sustainable business. In an industry that historically deprioritizes that, this work is pivotal.
But it doesn’t stop in New York. The collective is expanding its mission nationally and internationally, with plans to host showcases in Miami and London, opening doors for designers who can’t necessarily come to the city. This expansion is reflective of Williams’s ethos as she celebrates this milestone: still building. “The industry is not inclusive, it’s very exclusive. I don’t get offended for not being at the table, so I just built my own,” she says. “I’m excited about the growth, but there’s still a lot to do. We’re just getting started.”
At 15 years old, the EMERGE! Fashion Show serves as a reminder that fashion is not about the size two model strutting down a runway or sticking to design notes of minimalism. It’s about expressing yourself and your culture through clothing, an art that is subjective and welcoming, yet powerful. And through the Black lens, the power is limitless.