Bob Mackie never designed clothes meant to disappear into a room. There were sequins, beads, feathers, crystals and dangerously high slits, but beneath all that spectacle was an understanding that the woman wearing the clothes should always remain the main event. Mackie died Monday, September 14, in Palm Springs, California, at 87 from pneumonia. Across a career spanning more than five decades, the legendary designer earned nine Emmy Awards, a Tony Award and three Academy Award nominations while creating an unmistakable visual language that helped define American glamour.
Black women were an important part of that legacy. Diana Ross became one of Mackie’s defining muses as she transitioned from The Supremes into solo superstardom, wearing his body-skimming gowns, intricate beading, fringe and feathers for decades. Mackie and Ray Aghayan also designed the costumes for Ross’s 1972 film Lady Sings the Blues, earning an Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design. Dionne Warwick appeared in his designs during the Carol Burnett Show era, while Iman later brought Mackie’s theatrical approach to glamour onto the runway.
Tina Turner’s relationship with Mackie produced some of his most unforgettable stagewear. Instead of trying to contain Turner’s explosive performances, he designed clothes that moved with her, from barely-there sequined costumes and dramatic slits to enormous feathered creations that became part of her rock-star identity. Whitney Houston represented another side of Mackie’s glamour, wearing shimmering, elegant gowns that complemented the polish and grandeur she brought to the stage.
Decades later, a new generation of Black women continued reaching into Mackie’s world. Beyoncé wore one of his fiery red-and-gold creations while performing “Proud Mary” in tribute to Turner at the 2005 Kennedy Center Honors, creating a direct visual connection between two generations of Black performers. Zendaya and Law Roach have similarly embraced the Mackie archive, including the sculptural teal, turquoise and black Fall 1998 gown she wore to the 2022 TIME100 Gala.
Mackie will inevitably be remembered for rhinestones, feathers and unapologetic excess, but his clothes worked because he understood the power of the women wearing them. For generations of Black women, from Ross and Turner to Houston, Beyoncé and Zendaya, Mackie created clothes big enough to meet their star power.
